Our second Alaskan Cruise comes to an end!

Wednesday, July 17th, 2024

We left Montague Harbor around 7:30 this morning, bound for Anacortes Marina where we moor our boat. It was a smooth, calm cruise. Even our “last” strait crossing, the Straits of Juan de Fuca, was calm and uneventful, which definitely hasn’t always been the case. We cruised up in front of our house to take this picture and then proceeded on to Anacortes Marina. The only really challenge of the day was the number of boats we encountered after crossing back into the US from Canada. The seas were filled with an armada of boats heading West through the San Juan Islands, many appearing to be oblivious to the presence other boats. In Alaska we did a lot of log dodging; back in the San Juan Islands we did ALOT of boat dodging. On more than three occasions I had to change course, or just come to a near stop in the water as “Bayliner Bob from Bellevue” with his dingy in tow, forged ahead on autopilot with his bow in the air and huge wake behind him. Yikes! Even the ferry boats were honking at oncoming boat traffic. Pardon my language but it was a real “shit show.” Welcome to boating in the San Juan Islands in the summertime. Each to his own, I guess. Our own was to get home, quickly and get our boat tucked back in safely in our slip.

I will now spend the next several weeks getting the boat ready for another season, and hopefully a casual fall cruise. Usual stuff, oil and filter changes, zinc replacement and general maintenance on the engine and generator, as well as checking for any leaks or unusual appearances in the engine room. I will meet up with Chris May from Seattle Yachts to review the failing switch that “we believe” is responsible for the difficulties we had with our radio and displays, as well as the unusual battery drain. It seems to me that our alternator is not fully charging our batteries. Whatever it is we now have time to get to the bottom of it.

One of the great highlights of our visit to Alaska this summer was spending an hour with a momma bear and her cubs as we quietly followed along their path in our kayak. It is, by far, the most incredible “bear sighting” we have experienced. It happened in El Cove, on the NE coast of Baranoff Island.

Another major highlight was anchoring in front Reid Glacier in Glacier National Park. Reid Glacier is an 11 mile long glacier in Alaska. It was named after Harry Fielding Reid, one of the first scientists to study how glaciers move. This particular glacier has receded dramatically, so much so that we were able to kayak into shore and climb within feet of the glacier and watch the runoff of the glacial waters. Again, really spectacular. We were able to enjoy it with our sail boating friends, Karen and Kevin, whom we met in Meyer’s Chuck (also a very special place and a not to miss). It was also special because the tourist boats and cruise ships are not allowed in this harbor! We had it to ourselves and it was amazing.

We were able to help them out with water during our adventure. Their sail boat only holds 30 gallons so water is both precious and hard to get, especially in the wiles of remote Alaska. We were thankful that we could provide them with boat water and internet service via our Starlink.

Being able to experience the native tribes “Celebration,” which occurs every two years was a real treat and every special. We first learned about this celebration in Petersburg when locals gathered to welcome natives rowing on canoes to the final celebration point in Juneau. It was a great experience to be a part of. This event is not put on for the “tourists”, it is put on by and for the Native Alaskan community and at every event we attended we felt we were WELCOME and that they we happy that we had joined them in this gathering. Here are a few highlight pictures.

And then, just floating around bergs was amazing. Cruising down Tracy Arm to the glacier was a true life-time experience. We went as far as we could, probably within a quarter mile of the glacier when the floating ice became too dangerous to move through—ice and fiberglass are just not a good mix. Here are a few highlights from that cruise.

And a magnificent trip would not be complete without some “low lights.” My top low light was when we were docked in Warm Springs, a favorite place for locals due to the natural hot springs to relax in. Unfortunately, when we awoke in the morning on the dock we encountered this: three huge fishing boats, rafted together. Needless to say figuring out how to leave with these boats around us was a challenge, enhanced by the fast moving current from the nearby waterfall just beyond the dock.

Marlene’s lowlight was our “failing switch” issue that plagued us for the better part of a month. We learned how to work around it, as one does on a boat. I’ve made my peace with boating. There will ALWAYS be issues, some minor, some more major, and hopefully none of which are “show stoppers.” We did not have any boat issues that prevented us from continuing with our amazing visit, round two to Alaska. My guess is that we will reminisce about our experience, lick our minor wounds and have at it again. Next summer, the summer after? Time will tell. Stay tuned.